Object Description
A beautiful Edwardian pearl and diamond ring by Gattle, c.1910, the ring vertically set to the front with two brownish-purple round natural saltwater pearls between tapered shoulders set with old cut diamonds all in millegrain settings to an ornately engraved platinum mount with square section band. This elegant and sophisticated ring is set with two lovely pearls of unusual colour with attractive overtones, they are perfectly complimented by the old cut diamonds sprinkled down the sides and the foliate engraving on the ring.
Maker
Gattle
Period
Edwardian, circa 1910
Origin
America
Gemstones
2 x natural saltwater pearls 7.8mm with certificate from the Netherlands Gem Laboratory
24 x old cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 0.4cts
Setting
Platinum signed Gattle
Weight
5.6 grams
Dimensions
UK finger size J 1/2, US size 5
Head 16mm tall x 17mm wide inclusive of shoulders
Condition
Very fine
Directors Notes
New York jeweller E.M. Gattle &Co. might not be a well known name today but during the first decades of the 20th Century they produced jewellery that rivalled some of the best names in American jewellery at that time such as Tiffany & Co., Marcus & Co. and Raymond Yard.
Emanuel Gattle was born in Plattsburg in the far north of New York State in 1858 and left home for the bright lights of the city at just 19. Four years later he opened his eponymous jewellery store at the corner of Broadway and 27th Street. Little information or jewels from his early years survives but he was obviously successful and moved premises to 5th Avenue in 1900. It is his Edwardian and Art Deco jewellery that cemented his reputation and as one of New York’s finest jewellers. Images from the company’s catalogues of ‘The Gattle Building’ show a very large and impressive premises and the pictures of jewels that fill the catalogues pages illustrate a huge range of designs and styles.
The Gattle Book from 1914 talks about their re-modelling services for your “old fashioned and discarded pieces of jewellery” and advises clients to send in lists of the pieces they no longer wear in order for Gattle to recommend ways to re-use the stones in more contemporary designs. They go on to state “we import our own gems, design our own mountings, and Gattle Jewelry is developed under the supervision of our own experts.”
Innovative designs, quality gems and materials and excellent craftsmanship combine to create exceptional pieces. Jewels such as Art Deco wide strap bracelets set with substantial diamonds and emeralds, diamond and jade bracelets, coloured stone rings, as well as accessories such as 18ct gold mesh bags set with stones, lorgnettes and vanity cases in gold and platinum.
Sadly Emanuel dies suddenly in 1933 and whilst the company carried on without him for a few years, they closed in 1940.