Trabert & Hoeffer with Mauboussin Burmese ruby and diamond ring. Set with ten oval cabochon cut natural unenhanced Burmese rubies in open back claw settings with a combined approximate weight of 4.80 carats, further set with twenty eight round old cut diamonds in open back grain settings with a combined approximate weight of 0.70 carats, to a bold cluster design featuring curving claws, a stepped gallery and fancy shaped open backholing, leading to broad angled shoulders and flowing through to a tapered flat shank. Marked 14 carat yellow gold and platinum, marked “T & HM”, indistinctly numbered, American, circa 1940, accompanied by Gemmological Certification Services report #79179-41.
The New York jewellery firm of Trabert & Hoeffer worked in close collaboration with the French jewellery house of Mauboussin from 1936 to 1956. In particular they created a line of jewels in 1939 which closely resemble this piece (examples of which are pictured in Art Deco Jewelry, Thames and Hudson, 2009).