Object Description
A stylish pair of ‘Sertie Invisible’ gold, ruby and diamond asymmetric clip earrings Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1980s Paris, France made for the New York market Setting 18ct yellow gold with French assay marks and makers signature & numbers Gemstones and Other Materials Square calibre cut Burma rubies estimated to weigh a total of 3.80cts 80 round brilliant cut diamonds estimated to weigh a total of 2.60cts Description A pair of gold, ruby and diamond ‘sertie invisible’ earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, c.1980’s, the tapering curved panel-shaped earrings split diagonally across the centre, the upper parts set with calibre cut rubies in the ‘sertie invisible’ style and the lower pavé set with round brilliant cut diamonds, all in 18ct yellow gold with clip fittings. Directors Notes In 1934 Van Cleef & Arpels obtained an exclusive patent for their technique called Sertie Invisible or ‘invisible setting’. Invisiblyset jewellery results in a cluster or paving of stones without visible claws or signs of metal. Rubies and sapphires that are perfectly matched in colour were used most often and at later stages, the workshops experimented with diamonds. A gold or platinum frame perfectly holds in place each specially cut stone which slides into the setting along special grooves allowing them to take the form of the jewel. Invisiblyset jewellery, a term used exclusively for jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels, is highly sought after by collectors. Literature & Exhibitions See Sylvie Raulet Van Cleef & Arpels, Edition du Regard, 1986