Object Description
A stunning platinum and diamond ‘Flame’ brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, c.1930s, the brooch of undulating tapering form in a gentle S-shape, set with two rows of brilliant cut diamonds embellished at one end with a graduated line of step-cut diamonds, all in platinum channel settings, with a curved single pin brooch fitting to the reverse. This instantly recognisable, iconic design was introduced by VCA in 1934. The beautifully curved shape with contrasting round and baguette shaped stones was part of the new wave of jewellery designed during the late 20s and early 30s to appeal to the modern woman. It proved hugely popular and had many famous admirers including Jackie Kennedy who owned a matching pair.
Maker
Van Cleef & Arpels
Period
Circa 1930s
Origin
New York
Gemstones
40 x brilliant and single cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 4cts
36 x square and rectangular step cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 1.4cts
Setting
Platinum signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY and numbered
Weight
11 grams
Dimensions
7.4cm / 2.9” long and 0.8cm / 0.3” at widest point
Condition
Very fine
Literature & Exhibitions
See Van Cleef & Arpels – The Art of High Jewellery, Évelyne Possémé, p.89 for a pair of similar Flame Clips which are part of the Van Cleef & Arpels archive collection
Van Cleef & Arpels – Reflections of Eternity, plate nos. 134 & 135 for a pair of similar Flame Clips and a picture of Jackie Kennedy wearing her pair of flame brooches.
Van Cleef & Arpels, S.Raulet, p.117